To add Angel eyes (Shark Racing PCB type) to your de-ambered Gen 3 (3.5 and SII are different) lights (take them apart again or if you’ve not de-ambering follow the steps in the de-ambering DIY) there are a few extra steps to take. Once the light is split and the amber is taken out the two small screws that hold in the chrome ring bezels need to be removed. Turn the bezel to unclip it and it will pull out. Try not to handle it too much or use a soft cloth to minimise the finger and hand prints on the chrome. Turn the bezel over and place the 100mm AE ring on the back of it make sure that all of the LED’s are inside the bezel and it’s central, it should be quite a snug fit.

The three wires (2 red and 1 black) should ideally be at the top of the bezel opposite the screw hole. Using a hot glue gun (this method is far less messy, less visible and much tidier than using cable ties) run an inch of glue around the back of the AE where it touches the rear of the bezel, repeat this using at least 4 gluing points and be careful not to get any glue on the front of the bezel.

The 80mm AE is a little trickier and need to placed at the front of the bezel, once in place make a small mark on the inside of the bezel opposite the screw hole, remove the AE and drill a 5mm hole into the bezel taking care to only drill through the first layer of it, feed all 3 wire through the hole and position the AE at the front of the bezel until you’re happy that it’s sitting centrally,

hold it carefully (or get someone to hold it for you) turn it over and apply an inch of glue along 4 points of contact.

Clean any hand or finger prints from both bezels and replace them back into the light unit, use the 2 screws to secure the bezels. For each light you will need a small wiring block with 3 connections , bare 10mm of wire on all 6 wires from the AE’s, twist the 2 red wires that are labelled B+ together, the 2 red wires that are labelled A+ together and the 2 black wires together. Insert these into the wiring block and using your hot glue, glue the block to the upper part of the light between the 2 bezels being careful to route the wire around the rear of the bezels (use some hot glue to hold them in place if needed). To the wiring block insert 3 1metre pieces of wire (use different colours) 1 to red B+ 1 to red A+ and one to black, make a note which is A+ and B+. Before assembling the light unit back together turn over the black rear of the light and near the top centre there is a rubber U shaped tube remove this and feed the 3 wires through the hole. Reassemble the light pull the 3 wires so that they’re all the way out and apply a small dab of sealant to the hole. Connect the 3 wires to either a switch or to your side light/indicators. The side light wires attach to the brown (A+) and black (black wire) wire on the main plug to your lights and the indicator (B+) should connect to the white (passenger side blue driver side) wire on the indicator plug.

here is a video on you tube that helped me out when i had my gen 3> Except dont use an oven like this guy uses, just use a heat gun for a while to heat the edges!

if you're fitting Angel Eyes a few words of advice, test them first to be sure they all work, I've had 2 sets now, 1 set from Shark Racing and 1 set from Soulfulracing that have had faults I resolved 1 set before fitting but the others were fitted and its a right royal pain in the ass to strip the lights down again to do repairs or replacements, far harder than stripping them for the first time.

thinking of doing mine this week cos i am off!where is the place place to get heat gun and the sealant to save me treckin round Cork looking for em!thanks

Here's a set I de-ambered and painted to give a bit of a Gen 3.5 look and TBH I think they look even better than the 3.5 lights, no angel eyes fitted to these just de-ambered and sprayed satin black.

Is that the same a Mackers, Albert. A definite improvement on the originals

Yeah similar to Mackers but without the Angel eyes fitted, I'm really impressed with the finished article they really do look the business

Oh yes they do....

Will do dude!

Should be here 2morow....

Albert - those lights look sick mate


I have recently purchased a 04 Coupe and really wanna get rid of the amber light aspect of the head light.

I think i need to do some research on the whole process as the last thing i need to do is F*ck up my new motor. If anyone can tell me more about spraying them to give them the up graded look i'd be most appreciative


Peace

non setting mastic (not silicone sealant).

could you give me a forinstance of somthing im just not sure what too get

would i just ask in b + poo for non setting mastic not silicone sealant and they will no what i mean?


oh and mabie one more thing when painting do i need primer a few coats of silver then lacker?

thanks

i used silicone sealant and there hasnt been a problem. and ive had the lights open twice. just make sure you get that stuff in everywhere. need to be really maticulous. water can and will get in through the tiniest of holes.

I did my headlights a few months ago and i used tec 7 adhesive to reseal them and theres no water or fogging inside the lights


http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/file ... All+in+one

Take off your headlights. There are three 10mm bolts holding them in, a wiring connector for the headlights, and one for the indicator bulb.

You will now need a flat screwdriver a heat gun* a Phillips screwdriver and some none setting mastic (not silicone sealant).
Place the headlight on a cloth with the glass face down, and with the heat gun* on its lowest setting warm around the edge of the light where the glass meets the black plastic, be patient and always keep the heat gun* moving. After about ten minutes the sealant should start to melt,

using the flat screwdriver lift up the retaining tabs that are on the underside and side of the headlight, then stand the light on one end, grab the clear lens and black rear part and PULL! Rest and pull again it'll come apart. (If the sealant that's holding the headlight together starts to cool down, warm it back up). Eventually, the headlight will come apart.

Also, a second person is useful because the sealant will stretch have them cut the stretching sealant with a pair of scissors to make the job easier and cleaner and to avoid any of the sealant going on to the internals of your lights.

There is only one small Philips screw that holds the orange corner in place, using a Phillips-head screwdriver undo the screw, the chrome reflector and orange corner will pull out together,

separate the orange corner from the reflector, DO NOT TOUCH THE CHROME! Use gloves or be VERY careful not to touch the chrome.



. Handle this piece from underneath. Refit the chrome reflector some older Gen 3’s will not have a screw hole to hold it back in place with, if it hasn’t then a dab of clear silicone or a spot of hot glue using a glue gun on the corner of the reflector (where the three holes line up with the seating pad) will be sufficient.

Put the lights back together put a VERY THIN bead of new sealant around the groove in the black rear of the separated light and reheat the 2 pieces of the headlight with the heat gun* on it’s lowest setting,



again this should take about ten minutes and remember to always keep the heat gun* moving. Take both parts to one headlight and line up the headlight, and SQUEEZE! Or press down on the back of the lights make sure the headlight is on a cloth surface to avoid scratching it, make sure that the retaining tabs are relocated correctly.
Repeat the process for the other headlight.
Refit the headlight that was first done first this gives the sealant in both lights a few minutes to cool down before handling them. Re-fitting the headlights is the reverse of removing them. Don’t forget to fit chrome indicator bulbs (inline pins) to avoid the fried egg effect.
Ceremoniously dispose of those awful orange plastic bits that have been exorcised from your Coupe.
The process should take approx 1 hour per headlight.
To colour code your headlights
Follow the process as above until the headlights are separated into 2 parts, if you are painting the lights then it’s best that you take both headlights apart before starting to apply any paint. Once the headlight is apart use a Phillips screwdriver to take out all 3 of the screws from the front part of the headlight. Take each headlight apart entirely there'll be the following parts: clear lens, bezel, rear part, orange reflector, chrome corner reflector, and two chrome cylinders. If you want to keep any of the chrome parts unpainted, avoid touching the chrome, use gloves or be very careful not to touch the chrome. Handle these pieces from the back. Take the parts you want to paint and roughen the surface gently with either a scouring pad (the type used for washing saucepan) or 600grit sandpaper. Don't press too hard just take off the finish. Wash the pieces when you're done. Make sure to get all the dust and residue off. Dry the pieces completely using your heat gun* or a hairdryer don't use a towel.
Make sure you have somewhere dry, warm, dust free and sheltered to spray the pieces, lay them out and spray each piece with 3 light even coats of primer. If you spray too much at once you may end up with runs and it’ll take another day to wait for the runs to harden before you can sand them out. Let each coat dry for 10 minutes. Leave the primer to dry off for about 30 minutes (it should be enough if you have sprayed light coats). Using your colour coat apply three light coats and make sure you cover the pieces entirely allow 10 minutes between coats, leave to dry again for at least 30 minutes. The final coat should be clear lacquer again use 3 light coats allowing each coat to dry for 10 minutes and cover the pieces entirely, let the parts dry overnight before handling them. Put the lights back together (as described in the de-ambering section). Be extra careful as you don't want to chip the paint or get fingerprints on any of the parts.
*Heat gun* 1 or 2 hairdryers can be used as an alternative however this will add quite a lot of time to the overall process but is a little less harsh if you’re not confident using a heat gun. There is also an oven method which can be used however from personal experience I would not recommend this method.

You really need to leave atleast a strip on the reflector for the indicators.

The pic you have there looks like an apache style where the orange is left in and all but a strip of it is sprayed black to leave the orange strip.

Mine have no orange bits and a chrome strip to relect the indicator rest sprayed black. (Thanks to Kel, who if you asked nicely could do your lights for you for a stupidly small fee)

You also have the choice of leaving the whole indicator side chrome much like the Gen 3.5 Lights are.

As for what colour I would be tempted to leave them all chrome as I think that would look good with the blue coupe, im not sure what all blue would look like.....

Yeah, all blue might look a bit tacky. Id just leave it all chrome mate.

My coupe is black and Kel did mine too. Check my garage for pics.

Linky:
http://forums.hyundaicoupe.info/garage. ... ge_id=3617

You can see the chrome strip on that pic. It is needed so indicators reflect and can be seen.

I suggest either black with the chrome strip or black with chrome indicator section. (much like the 3.5 lights)

All Chrome

Sprayed Black

cheers for all the replys guys... i think the vote has been cast and it looks like black with the chrome strip will suit the car better! they are some good work on those lights btw! looking forward to getting them sorted

Hi guys,

Just a quick question. I'm keen to de-amber my headlights but am only put off by getting pulled over by mr pc plod telling me I should have "orange" indicators. If they will give people points and tickets for blowing your nose whilst behind the wheel... then surely a police man on a power trip would argue that I should have orange side indicators?

I remember a while ago on a previous car that the MOT the chap said that i would need to replace the orange indicator bulbs for the next MOT. The coupe doesn't have orange bulb (I dont think??)... so surely the orange plastic (which I plan to remove) does the job of the orange bulb?

Am I just being paranoid that either it wouldn't pass the MOT or I get pulled over for not having orange indicators?

Has anyone had any trouble off people? I think it looks great.. I just want to make sure I'm not going to get hassle off people :D

you will replace the white bulbs with either amber ones or silvtec amber ones

[quote="LiDL"]you will replace the white bulbs with either amber ones or silvtec amber ones[/quote]

Aha.. Ideal mate. That answers my question perfectly. Perfect :-)