mine being the first ones off the production line in early 2002 only had a three year warranty, so would have run out in 2005 then. have got a warranty on new engine and clutch/flywheel but this would not cover a tps.

thanks anyway

paul

Everywhere i have tried don't do one for the v6, unless i go through hyundai, and thats £80odd.

keep ringing around the yards they will have one somewhere i have a spare for gen1 2.0L as i grabbed a couple last time i was there but i dont think it would go on the new coupe as the engine is different

It could well be a false economy getting one from a scrappie as the TPS is a common failure hence the sensible option is to buy new.

Mathew

hey all just thought to say ive done the tps replacement and it was damn easy to do except i got to excited and snapped the bolt off doing it up to tightly...doh!!

so today im drilling it out so i can put a new bolt in and make it more solid.

the revin has gone down to normal sometimes it will flicker a little and has once revved up and down but no as bad as what it was and it cost me £80 the part from dealer (i got trade as i said i work for a garage )

but i suggest to anyone buy from main dealer as your getting a brand new and correct product. next is to replace spark plugs and ht leads just to help.

£80 trade? I think they saw you coming! I'm pretty sure the retail price at the main dealers is only about that much.

I would recommend others to try www.throttlepositionsensors.co.uk as they are around £30 there (2 year guarantee too).

It sounds strange that your replacement hasn't solved your problem completely - that would suggest your problem lies elsewhere (or you had two issues to start with).

Mathew

He did, mate... We sort of touched on it ...

Thanks for this thread, my car is back on the road now... just for reference what happened..

for a few weeks its had the odd delay of throttle response when cold but then most of the time it was ok until a few days ago when the check engine light appeared. at that time is was still running ok so i was going to take it to the garage at the weekend until thusday at work revs just kept dropping and stalling. after a tricky 16mile trip home trying to keep revs higher than 1000rpm, while stopping at what seemed a million set of lights, so it wouldnt cut out. i read up on this site and ordered the TPS from the local hyundai dealer.. £87 +vat (about £101 total). i can see now they saw me coming but at the time i wasnt bothered, just wanted her back on the road.

funny story fitting it though... ...fitted started up, engine rocking wildly and basically not much power... ahh 2 of the the new ignition leads that were "temporary" moved to fit it were not plugged in. reset ecu and works perfect now.

Is this problem related to the choke (or whatever system the computer uses instead) as my car has the described symptons, but much worse when the engines cold, after a few minutes

once again - well put Mr Newton

ok i will admit defeat on this one just to end this debate. but before anyone jumps to buying parts that cost the earth follow these simple: rules - inspect - clean and adjust. as nine time out of ten dirt or age is the culprit. any way if any one is interested i have down loaded hyundai service and repair data that i can take sheets from to post on the fourum the only prob is its for the 2006 model range but its still very relervant.

Hi all, stephan has a made a valid point ...

Vehicle: 1996 (P) Hyundai Coupe 16v 2.0L SE Auto

Problem: When engine reaches normal operating temperature, it starts cycling to around 2000 revs, then drops to normal idle again, then up to 2000, and so on and so on. This cycling is not erratic, but very predictable. Basically, it rises, drops, rises, drops ... lol, hope I'm not over-explaining this. Anyway, it does not occur when the engine is started from cold, although when it is cold, if you press the throttle, the revs tend to stick high for around 4 seconds before dropping to normal idle.

I thought it was the TPS, which I've just replaced (for £41 not 70+ I'm happy to say ).

Sadly, the problem is still present, so I thought I'd post this info' now, then follow-up with the remedy when I've had time to sort it. It might save others some money.

I'm now presuming there's a leak on the induction side but it could be a number of things, and I'll check the 'free' possibilities first.

Great, friendly, and informative forum by the way.

Mate have a search on her somewhere, i think it has been mentioned that it could be a crank sensor or ht leads.

Thanks for that, you're right ... I have seen it mentioned on here somewhere. I will go search

My engine is searching for revs when I'm idling or driving extremely slowly. But rather than settling down, a lot of the time, it just cuts out completely. This only seems to happen when I've been driving for a few miles; it's fine when I've just set off. Does this sound like a TPS problem or is it more likely to be down to something else instead?

Thanks for any advice.

yeah could well be

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to attempt to replace the part myself to try to save some money. I've attached a photo of my engine; is the TPS the part that I've circled? Having checked it against the diagram on the first page of this thread, it looks like it is. I assume that to be able to get access to it, I need to remove the cover of the engine. Can this be done by removing the four nuts that I've circled? Will I need to do anything else to gain access?

Many thanks!