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 Post subject: Replacing the sump - 2.0l Gen 1
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:17 pm 
Picking up a bit of speed
Picking up a bit of speed
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:13 am
Posts: 505
Location: Stoke on Trent
Coupe: gen1
By no means a comprehensive guide, but it may just help someone out. Sorry about the quality of the pictures, they were taken using a 'phone camera!

Tools Required

New Sump (obviously!) - Holdcrofts Hyundai in Stoke £38
10mm Socket (Preferable a deep slimline one, see pictures below)
14mm Socket & spanner
15mm Socket
17mm Socket & spanner
Sturdy Ratchet (preferably a torque bar as well)
Instant gasket (I used 'Instant Gasket' by Granville) - About £3 from motor factors
New oil filter (Optional) - £4 from motor factors

Step 1.
You need to disconnect and remove the flexi pipe length from the exhaust. If you can't slacken the bolts off holding the flange together, you may as well stop right now unless you have the means to heat the bolts up and spare nuts/bolts to replace them with afterward). Also, if you have a 4.2.1 header system like mine, then you will also need to remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump in place and the nuts holding the manifold in place on the block to allow a little movement in the manifold itself as shown below (I managed to get the old sump out without having to remove the manifold altogether)

Step 2.
Next comes the brace running from the front cross member to the rear engine mount. The 4 big bolts holding mine in place were an absolute *!$%£!* ! The back ones weren't too bad, but the front ones were a nightmare. If you feel across the top of the front cross member, you will be able to locate the 2 holes where these bolts sit. I had to keep pouring lubricating oil into the holes and working the bolts backwards and forwards to get them out. A normal socket wrench wasn't enough and I had to resort to a large torque bar. I would start with the front ones 1st. Once those are out, remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the dust guard to the brace. You will also notice 2 recessed 14mm nuts (Well, 1 is a nut, the other a bolt).
Leave the recessed nuts in place, and make a start on the rear (Shown below). You will also find the same recessed 14mm bolts here too, but these do need to be removed.
Once you have the 4 large bolts and the 2 recessed 14mm ones from the rear out, the brace will be left hanging by the front engine mount. There is another bolt on top of the brace also fastening it to the engine mount, which seemed impossible to get onto, so I simply left them all in place and removed the large bolt running through the middle of the engine mount instead which is easy to access (shown below)
Once that bolt is removed, the whole strut should just drop away.

Step 3.
There is now a cover over the bottom of the engine that will need to be removed. Unfortunately, I was making a coffee whilst this bit was done, but it seemed pretty straight forward, just 5 or 6 14mm bolts to remove.

Step 4.
Undo the sump plug and drain off the oil.

Step 5.
You should now have access to all of the bolts holding the sump on. Simply work your way around and remove them all. 2 of them are awkward to get onto as they are obstructed by a metal plate, but this is easily removed and a deep slimline 10mm socket (as shown below)will allow you to get them out.

Step 6.
Okay, now we're winning! The only problem left now is to actually remove the sump itself. Because there is no gasket as such, it will appear to be 'glued' onto the engine! What I managed to do was ease a large flat screwdriver into one corner between the engine block and sump to break the seal and then worked my way around. Eventually, it more or less just dropped off. If you have the 4.2.1 manifold, then a little bit of 'jiggery pokery' will now be required to maneuver the sump around the manifold.

Step 7.
Using the sandpaper, clean the surface of the block where the sump used to be to remove any of the old sealant, being careful not to get any of the residue or dust in the engine itself. The picture below really is bad, but it gives you an idea. It also shows how the 4.2.1 manifold obstructs you!

Step 8.
You will now need to apply some instant gasket around the edge of the new sump. Again, try to ensure that any excess will be squashed to the outside of the new sump and not into the engine. Refit the sump, tighten the bolts up and clean off any excess sealant.

Step 9.
Re-assemble everything in the reverse of how you took it off. Don't forget the metal plate which obscured the 2 sump bolts!

Step 10.
For the sake of £3 or £4, you may as well replace the oil filter as well while you're at it.

Step 11.
Refill the engine with oil! :mrgreen: :lol

Total Cost: Around £45
Time Taken: Around 2 hours (mostly due to those front bolts on the brace :bang and my coffee breaks! :mrgreen:)

Finally, I'd just like to say a big thanks to the 'owd fella' for his help with this (ex-mechanic). Not sure I would have wanted to tackle it on my own! Having said that, if you have the tools and a little more mechanical ability than me, it shouldn't really be too bad a job ...............

Hope this is of help to someone :thumbup

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 11:56 am 
I'm really motoring now
I'm really motoring now
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Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:04 pm
Posts: 240
Location: Wakefield
Coupe: gen1
good guide. !

they are not a generally bad job to do made a lot easier with an impact wrench though as those cross member bolt get damn rusty ..

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 2:56 pm 
Picking up a bit of speed
Picking up a bit of speed

Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:52 pm
Posts: 916
Location: Rotherham
Coupe: gen1
Good write-up mate.

I will be replacing mine at some point in the future again.

You can do this without removing the cross member though, so long as the car is jacked up and you can fiddle about in small spaces you can get it off, took us around an hour to get it off, drill it to make an oil return from the turbo and refit it, but it is a pain in the arris!!!

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