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The UK Hyundai Coupe Site Forum • View topic - DIY: Oil Change Guide
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 Post subject: DIY: Oil Change Guide
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:33 pm 
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Right, this isnt a hard job and will save you a considerable amount of money than if you took it
to a garage.

The pics are from my gen 3 1.6 but its basically the same procedure on all cars. Should take less than an hour if you have the right tools.

Tools i used:
Oil filter (£2.99 - halfords trade price)
Oil (I used castrol magnatec 10w-40)
Jack + Axle stands or other method of lifting the front of the car safely
17mm Spanner or rachet and socket
Oil drainer or something to catch the old oil in
Oil filter removal tool (can use a big screwdriver through the middle of the filter if you dont have access to one)
Tissue paper
Gloves
Kettle, Mug, Tea bags, Sugar and Milk.


First off lift the car off the ground using jack or ramp


Using a 17mm spanner, locate and undo the sump plug, the trick is to loosen until hand tight then lift the plug up and away quickly so you dont cover your arm in (possibly warm/hot) engine oil.
Please dispose of your old oil properly, not down drains/sinks etc. after oil has drained and your down to a trickle, replace the sump plug and tighten with spanner/ratchet nice and tight(dont go mad though)



Locate your oil filter, which is on the front of the engine on 1.6/2.0 not sure about the V6
i removed the little plastic piece underneath just to make it easier but this can be left on if you dont want to take it off.



Using the oil filter removal tool loosen the old filter, as i mentione dif you dont have access to the tool, you can hammer a large flat blade screwdriver through the middle of the filter and use as a lever to undo the filter, however this is messy!
Use the same method as the sump plug with something to catch oil as the filter holds oil, remove by hand


Take new filter, and apply a thin film of new or used oil to the rubber ring, this stops the filter sticking to the engine, making it 10x harder to get off when you next do an oil change


Put new filter on, TIGHTEN ONLY BY HAND do not use tools. Hand tight is enough. Replace plastic cover if you removed it.


Finally, lower car to the floor, put in 3 litres of oil, and start engine, leave for a minute or two, stop the engine, check your dipstick and top up as required to max level on dipstick. It is important you start your engine and then top up as pouring in oil and checking will give a false reading due to the oil fiter and some other parts being empty of oil.


Fire up the kettle and have a congratulatory brew


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Just thought I would add, it's best to let your car warm up abit so the oil is more runny and all comes out easier... I have also found removing the oil cap and dipstick helps increase the oil flow rate...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:06 am 
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Mate!

Your like 2 days to late!

I ended up asking me uncle, so it was still free but i wanted to do it meself!

Nice walkthrough all the same!

Note also added, its good to through in some engine flush aswell, gets rid of carbon build up and general sh!t.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:42 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 1:33 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:00 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:08 pm 
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Another quick tap to add - give the sump plug a wipe before refitting as it is magnetic and will have trapped any pieces of swarf and/or other metal contaminants.

Mathew


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:10 pm 
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I've heard that sticking a magnet to the outside of the filter is beneficial - any truth in this???


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:18 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:34 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:59 pm 
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ill have a chirp, good walk through m8 but id advise against using castrol magnatec, castrol magnatec it will make all the bits of metal that you get inside over time with ware stick to evrything, imo not good on moving parts to have small bits of metal stuck on them


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:46 pm 
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Cant say I've ever heard that before, not saying its not got some truth in it, but in 6 years of putting it into hundreds of cars at work ive never had, or heard of anybody else, having problems, cant see it being one of the most popular oils in the world if that happened.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:14 pm 
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my car starting to get clicky again, everything seems ok no leaks i think at least??

anywhere i should check and make sure things r working?? seemed abit oil around the sump bit when i was doing it? can oil leak from higher then the sump r anything???


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 11:32 am 
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Great guide Daz,

I decided to change my oil and filter today... everything was going fine until it came time to remove the sump plug... i couldnt get it off... i was using one of those adjustable spanners but the plug would even budge...

is there anything i can do to remove this plug ?
Would using a different type of spanner help ?


Any help would be appriciated..


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