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 Post subject: De-ambering gen3 headlights. "Tatlocking"
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 10:07 am 
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Use this post to discuss the De-ambering headlights DIY


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 Post subject: Angel Eyes
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:53 pm 
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To add Angel eyes (Shark Racing PCB type) to your de-ambered Gen 3 (3.5 and SII are different) lights (take them apart again or if you’ve not de-ambering follow the steps in the de-ambering DIY) there are a few extra steps to take. Once the light is split and the amber is taken out the two small screws that hold in the chrome ring bezels need to be removed. Turn the bezel to unclip it and it will pull out. Try not to handle it too much or use a soft cloth to minimise the finger and hand prints on the chrome. Turn the bezel over and place the 100mm AE ring on the back of it make sure that all of the LED’s are inside the bezel and it’s central, it should be quite a snug fit.
Image
The three wires (2 red and 1 black) should ideally be at the top of the bezel opposite the screw hole. Using a hot glue gun (this method is far less messy, less visible and much tidier than using cable ties) run an inch of glue around the back of the AE where it touches the rear of the bezel, repeat this using at least 4 gluing points and be careful not to get any glue on the front of the bezel.
Image
The 80mm AE is a little trickier and need to placed at the front of the bezel, once in place make a small mark on the inside of the bezel opposite the screw hole, remove the AE and drill a 5mm hole into the bezel taking care to only drill through the first layer of it, feed all 3 wire through the hole and position the AE at the front of the bezel until you’re happy that it’s sitting centrally,
Image
hold it carefully (or get someone to hold it for you) turn it over and apply an inch of glue along 4 points of contact.
Image
Clean any hand or finger prints from both bezels and replace them back into the light unit, use the 2 screws to secure the bezels. For each light you will need a small wiring block with 3 connections , bare 10mm of wire on all 6 wires from the AE’s, twist the 2 red wires that are labelled B+ together, the 2 red wires that are labelled A+ together and the 2 black wires together. Insert these into the wiring block and using your hot glue, glue the block to the upper part of the light between the 2 bezels being careful to route the wire around the rear of the bezels (use some hot glue to hold them in place if needed). To the wiring block insert 3 1metre pieces of wire (use different colours) 1 to red B+ 1 to red A+ and one to black, make a note which is A+ and B+. Before assembling the light unit back together turn over the black rear of the light and near the top centre there is a rubber U shaped tube remove this and feed the 3 wires through the hole. Reassemble the light pull the 3 wires so that they’re all the way out and apply a small dab of sealant to the hole. Connect the 3 wires to either a switch or to your side light/indicators. The side light wires attach to the brown (A+) and black (black wire) wire on the main plug to your lights and the indicator (B+) should connect to the white (passenger side blue driver side) wire on the indicator plug.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:42 pm 
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without sounding like a complete idiot....the DIY for de-ambering is really good but is there a DIY for tatlocking with pictures cos I find I work much better with visual aids. thinking about tatlocking my lights tomorrow as ive got a free couple of days and im going to paint them to get the face lift effect.
Plasticote matt black will do, right?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:16 am 
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here is a video on you tube that helped me out when i had my gen 3> Except dont use an oven like this guy uses, just use a heat gun for a while to heat the edges!

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=nkwMlNu0Eck


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 12:28 pm 
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nice one that vids a big help...i know what u mean about the oven it does not seem clever to put a light in the oven


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:54 am 
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if you're fitting Angel Eyes a few words of advice, test them first to be sure they all work, I've had 2 sets now, 1 set from Shark Racing and 1 set from Soulfulracing that have had faults I resolved 1 set before fitting but the others were fitted and its a right royal pain in the ass to strip the lights down again to do repairs or replacements, far harder than stripping them for the first time.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:47 am 
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thinking of doing mine this week cos i am off!where is the place place to get heat gun and the sealant to save me treckin round Cork looking for em!thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:52 pm 
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Any hardware store mate will have them...

Even the tesco extra stores sell tools, so if you wanted a cheap tool (under a £10) for the 1 off purpose then go for that mate.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:41 pm 
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Dumb question but I quite often see people say i've tatlocked my headlights.
Are they referring to the method used by Albert or Albert is doing them for them. Just wondering as im not far from Stoke and don't trust myself doing DIY on the car.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:05 pm 
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deadgoodundies wrote:
Dumb question but I quite often see people say i've tatlocked my headlights.
Are they referring to the method used by Albert or Albert is doing them for them. Just wondering as im not far from Stoke and don't trust myself doing DIY on the car.


Both, Albert was the first one to do it and has done many for members on here so we adopted the name for any form of de-ambering. best thing is to give him a PM and see if he can do it for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Lakez wrote:
Any hardware store mate will have them...

Even the tesco extra stores sell tools, so if you wanted a cheap tool (under a £10) for the 1 off purpose then go for that mate.


we dont have tesco extra in cork so will be taking a trip to B&Q or Woodies!hope it stays dry this week its like 1 degree and raining/snowing!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:27 pm 
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Here's a set I de-ambered and painted to give a bit of a Gen 3.5 look and TBH I think they look even better than the 3.5 lights, no angel eyes fitted to these just de-ambered and sprayed satin black.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:30 pm 
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Is that the same a Mackers, Albert. A definite improvement on the originals


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:35 pm 
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Yeah similar to Mackers but without the Angel eyes fitted, I'm really impressed with the finished article they really do look the business


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 12:46 am 
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Oh yes they do....


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:54 am 
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get up some pix of em fitted!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Will do dude!

Should be here 2morow....


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:48 pm 
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Lakez wrote:
Will do dude!

Should be here 2morow....


They will look sweet on your black beauty


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:01 pm 
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Albert - those lights look sick mate

Image
I have recently purchased a 04 Coupe and really wanna get rid of the amber light aspect of the head light.

I think i need to do some research on the whole process as the last thing i need to do is F*ck up my new motor. If anyone can tell me more about spraying them to give them the up graded look i'd be most appreciative


Peace


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 6:49 pm 
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non setting mastic (not silicone sealant).

could you give me a forinstance of somthing im just not sure what too get

would i just ask in b + poo for non setting mastic not silicone sealant and they will no what i mean?


oh and mabie one more thing when painting do i need primer a few coats of silver then lacker?

thanks


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 10:33 pm 
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i used silicone sealant and there hasnt been a problem. and ive had the lights open twice. just make sure you get that stuff in everywhere. need to be really maticulous. water can and will get in through the tiniest of holes.


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 8:45 am 
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I did my headlights a few months ago and i used tec 7 adhesive to reseal them and theres no water or fogging inside the lights


http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/file ... All+in+one


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 4:59 pm 
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mick doyle wrote:
I did my headlights a few months ago and i used tec 7 adhesive to reseal them and theres no water or fogging inside the lights


http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/file ... All+in+one


mine too and they are perfect!


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 Post subject: write up with some pics
PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:59 pm 
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Take off your headlights. There are three 10mm bolts holding them in, a wiring connector for the headlights, and one for the indicator bulb.
Image
You will now need a flat screwdriver a heat gun* a Phillips screwdriver and some none setting mastic (not silicone sealant).
Place the headlight on a cloth with the glass face down, and with the heat gun* on its lowest setting warm around the edge of the light where the glass meets the black plastic, be patient and always keep the heat gun* moving. After about ten minutes the sealant should start to melt,
Image
using the flat screwdriver lift up the retaining tabs that are on the underside and side of the headlight, then stand the light on one end, grab the clear lens and black rear part and PULL! Rest and pull again it'll come apart. (If the sealant that's holding the headlight together starts to cool down, warm it back up). Eventually, the headlight will come apart.
Image
Also, a second person is useful because the sealant will stretch have them cut the stretching sealant with a pair of scissors to make the job easier and cleaner and to avoid any of the sealant going on to the internals of your lights.
Image
There is only one small Philips screw that holds the orange corner in place, using a Phillips-head screwdriver undo the screw, the chrome reflector and orange corner will pull out together,
Image
separate the orange corner from the reflector, DO NOT TOUCH THE CHROME! Use gloves or be VERY careful not to touch the chrome.
Image

Image
. Handle this piece from underneath. Refit the chrome reflector some older Gen 3’s will not have a screw hole to hold it back in place with, if it hasn’t then a dab of clear silicone or a spot of hot glue using a glue gun on the corner of the reflector (where the three holes line up with the seating pad) will be sufficient.
Image
Put the lights back together put a VERY THIN bead of new sealant around the groove in the black rear of the separated light and reheat the 2 pieces of the headlight with the heat gun* on it’s lowest setting,
Image

Image
again this should take about ten minutes and remember to always keep the heat gun* moving. Take both parts to one headlight and line up the headlight, and SQUEEZE! Or press down on the back of the lights make sure the headlight is on a cloth surface to avoid scratching it, make sure that the retaining tabs are relocated correctly.
Repeat the process for the other headlight.
Refit the headlight that was first done first this gives the sealant in both lights a few minutes to cool down before handling them. Re-fitting the headlights is the reverse of removing them. Don’t forget to fit chrome indicator bulbs (inline pins) to avoid the fried egg effect.
Ceremoniously dispose of those awful orange plastic bits that have been exorcised from your Coupe.
The process should take approx 1 hour per headlight.
To colour code your headlights
Follow the process as above until the headlights are separated into 2 parts, if you are painting the lights then it’s best that you take both headlights apart before starting to apply any paint. Once the headlight is apart use a Phillips screwdriver to take out all 3 of the screws from the front part of the headlight. Take each headlight apart entirely there'll be the following parts: clear lens, bezel, rear part, orange reflector, chrome corner reflector, and two chrome cylinders. If you want to keep any of the chrome parts unpainted, avoid touching the chrome, use gloves or be very careful not to touch the chrome. Handle these pieces from the back. Take the parts you want to paint and roughen the surface gently with either a scouring pad (the type used for washing saucepan) or 600grit sandpaper. Don't press too hard just take off the finish. Wash the pieces when you're done. Make sure to get all the dust and residue off. Dry the pieces completely using your heat gun* or a hairdryer don't use a towel.
Make sure you have somewhere dry, warm, dust free and sheltered to spray the pieces, lay them out and spray each piece with 3 light even coats of primer. If you spray too much at once you may end up with runs and it’ll take another day to wait for the runs to harden before you can sand them out. Let each coat dry for 10 minutes. Leave the primer to dry off for about 30 minutes (it should be enough if you have sprayed light coats). Using your colour coat apply three light coats and make sure you cover the pieces entirely allow 10 minutes between coats, leave to dry again for at least 30 minutes. The final coat should be clear lacquer again use 3 light coats allowing each coat to dry for 10 minutes and cover the pieces entirely, let the parts dry overnight before handling them. Put the lights back together (as described in the de-ambering section). Be extra careful as you don't want to chip the paint or get fingerprints on any of the parts.
*Heat gun* 1 or 2 hairdryers can be used as an alternative however this will add quite a lot of time to the overall process but is a little less harsh if you’re not confident using a heat gun. There is also an oven method which can be used however from personal experience I would not recommend this method.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 1:28 am 
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Albert Tatlock wrote:
if you're fitting Angel Eyes a few words of advice, test them first to be sure they all work, I've had 2 sets now, 1 set from Shark Racing and 1 set from Soulfulracing that have had faults I resolved 1 set before fitting but the others were fitted and its a right royal pain in the ass to strip the lights down again to do repairs or replacements, far harder than stripping them for the first time.


I`m so glad you mentioned testing them!

I`ve got 2x100 and 2x80mm V3 (Shark Racing) rings hooked up to a 12v power jump starter thing and I see three LEDs on one of my 100mms are much dimmer than all the rest! I`d be hopping mad if I had installed this ring already!

Even though its easy to spot this fault, I think viewing all four rings illuminated at once makes it more than easy!

I only hope Shark Racing see fit to send a replacement ASAP!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:11 pm 
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if you have problems getting a replacement give me a shout as I may be able to repair the faulty AE


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:25 pm 
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Albert Tatlock wrote:
if you have problems getting a replacement give me a shout as I may be able to repair the faulty AE


Thanks very much for the offer but Shark Racing have been very efficient - they are sending out a new ring and have asked me to rerun the old one once it arrives!

Not bad service at all.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 4:55 pm 
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billeh wrote:
non setting mastic (not silicone sealant).

could you give me a forinstance of somthing im just not sure what too get

would i just ask in b + poo for non setting mastic not silicone sealant and they will no what i mean?


oh and mabie one more thing when painting do i need primer a few coats of silver then lacker?

thanks


I used Sikaflex EBT seems very very similar to the stuff that was in there in the first place. About 7 quid a tube and need one of those cartridge applicators.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:12 pm 
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billeh wrote:
non setting mastic (not silicone sealant).

could you give me a forinstance of somthing im just not sure what too get

would i just ask in b + poo for non setting mastic not silicone sealant and they will no what i mean?


oh and mabie one more thing when painting do i need primer a few coats of silver then lacker?

thanks

Sorry Billeh I only just noticed your post, there's no need to spray the lights silver as they'll already be perfect chrome but if you want them a different colour you'd probably be best to give them a couple light coats of primer first. As avid says the siklaflex is fine or there's a product called tiger seal if you're struggling to get either you'll find a stockist through Google


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:56 pm 
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am thinking about tatlocking mine next week as im off

got a blue coupe.....and am contemplating painting them blue to match the car at the same time.....but having read the complications about the indicators being too dull.....whats you recommendation Albert?

leave them standard? or any measures to ensure legality if i decide to paint.....

Albert Tatlock wrote:

Image



i want mine like those but with the blue paint obvs....


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:09 pm 
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You really need to leave atleast a strip on the reflector for the indicators.

The pic you have there looks like an apache style where the orange is left in and all but a strip of it is sprayed black to leave the orange strip.

Mine have no orange bits and a chrome strip to relect the indicator rest sprayed black. (Thanks to Kel, who if you asked nicely could do your lights for you for a stupidly small fee)

You also have the choice of leaving the whole indicator side chrome much like the Gen 3.5 Lights are.

As for what colour I would be tempted to leave them all chrome as I think that would look good with the blue coupe, im not sure what all blue would look like.....


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 1:28 pm 
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Yeah, all blue might look a bit tacky. Id just leave it all chrome mate.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 4:40 pm 
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will indeed leave it all chrome!.....the democracy has cast its verdict!!
i can also p*ss about on photoshop if i want lol

now its setting a day to do my tatlocking......... :stir

who is this kel you speak of......i may have to ask very very very nicely too as i am not confident in doing mine at all!

after looking i also am confident all chrome is the best bet...with chrome indicator bulb obvsss


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 4:55 pm 
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Kel = Mr Tatlock

He is over in Stoke.

Oh and not related but while I notice your in Wolves look up Sharky on here for future services etc. He is near Brum.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:25 pm 
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Cheers mate. Thanks for the info. Yee will look up sharky.....anf ive pm'd mr tatlock yday awaiting a reply but that was for the blue. Will send him another now scrapping that idea and enquiring whether he has the time for if i have trek up to stoke lol

so fingers crossed ill be all tatlocked soon :rollin


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:09 pm 
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He is busy guy so give him some time :)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:27 pm 
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Yep theres no rush whenever the master himself has time


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:37 pm 
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Slightly new to this forum. Long time lurker but first time poster (or sommit like that) :scared . Pm'd Mr Tatlock a bit ago as im not confident about doing mine on my own either. Would be one of my first mods excludingmy boot build for subs and amp. Just wondering what people recommend in terms of designs for front headlights on a black gen 3 coupe? dunno whether to go for all chrome or sprayed black? Any pictures of either designs guys?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:44 am 
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Go for the black, unless you are going for a black and *** colour theme. In that case go with the accent colour ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:02 am 
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My coupe is black and Kel did mine too. Check my garage for pics.

Linky:
http://forums.hyundaicoupe.info/garage. ... ge_id=3617

You can see the chrome strip on that pic. It is needed so indicators reflect and can be seen.

I suggest either black with the chrome strip or black with chrome indicator section. (much like the 3.5 lights)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:10 pm 
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All Chrome
Image
Sprayed Black
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:03 pm 
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cheers for all the replys guys... i think the vote has been cast and it looks like black with the chrome strip will suit the car better! :thumbup they are some good work on those lights btw! looking forward to getting them sorted


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 Post subject: Re: De-ambering gen3 headlights. "Tatlocking"
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:43 pm 
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Free-wheeling
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:54 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Devon, UK
Hi guys,

Just a quick question. I'm keen to de-amber my headlights but am only put off by getting pulled over by mr pc plod telling me I should have "orange" indicators. If they will give people points and tickets for blowing your nose whilst behind the wheel... then surely a police man on a power trip would argue that I should have orange side indicators?

I remember a while ago on a previous car that the MOT the chap said that i would need to replace the orange indicator bulbs for the next MOT. The coupe doesn't have orange bulb (I dont think??)... so surely the orange plastic (which I plan to remove) does the job of the orange bulb?

Am I just being paranoid that either it wouldn't pass the MOT or I get pulled over for not having orange indicators?

Has anyone had any trouble off people? I think it looks great.. I just want to make sure I'm not going to get hassle off people :D


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 Post subject: Re: De-ambering gen3 headlights. "Tatlocking"
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 2:50 pm 
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Red-lining
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Joined: Fri May 05, 2006 10:20 pm
Posts: 2655
Location: Sunderland
Coupe: gen3
you will replace the white bulbs with either amber ones or silvtec amber ones


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 Post subject: Re: De-ambering gen3 headlights. "Tatlocking"
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:02 pm 
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Free-wheeling
Free-wheeling

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:54 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Devon, UK
[quote="LiDL"]you will replace the white bulbs with either amber ones or silvtec amber ones[/quote]

Aha.. Ideal mate. That answers my question perfectly. Perfect :-)


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