hi, i have a 2002 1.6s coupe and due to the cold weather lately the battery went flat , sooooo i took the battery off and charged it up, but didnt get a chance to put it back on for 48 hours, at first the fob and alarm was going mad and flashing the indicators randomly, so i disconnected then reconnected it and it seems to be acting as per normal now, i.e. locking doors and flashing indicators the normal amount of times..... but now the car refuses to start, engine turns over fine but no start, i called a hyundai dealer who said the alarm and immobiliser are separate as the chip is in the key, other than the usual " get it down to us and we'll hook it up" speech, he gave me little other help... any idea's???

Title probs doesnt help - ive edited it now

Anyone know of this to help?

Is this still an issue? Usually unlocking it, then re-arming the alarm (wait 40 seconds) then unlock - it should start - give it a whirl

hi, tried arming then leavin it, then un-arming it and leaving it, then re-arming it again, still nothing, just turns over but wont fire up ........... if the immobiliser is seperate from the alarm would it not be the case its sumthing to do with the reader that reads the chip in the ignition key? ............... plus the fob is locking and unlcoking the doors ok now.

just put obd reader on and got 3 engine fault codes, p1610 Immobilizer - Smartra Error or Sensor Reference Voltage Fault........... p1801 Immobilizer Transponder Error........ p1805 Immobilizer EEPROM Error or EEPROM Error/VIN Mismatch..... so i take it im stuffed

some of the codes may be caused by the dead battery, they are only an indication you need a professional to understand what they may point to in order to use them for good.

I'm winging it here so feel free to ignore.

cars are made up of a number of seperate systems which all need to be in sync, it looks like one is refusing to talk to another due to it not remembering who the other one is, this could be 10 mins on the diagnostics machine and everything fixed, even at a dealership that shouldnt cost too much. course with voltage drops and spikes it could be a replacement bit, in which you will be left shouting "YOU WANT HOW MUCH FOR THAT LITTLE BOX WITH WIRES COMING OUT OF IT??!?"

dependant on where you are in the country aka sharky is recomended by all who has crossed his path (that I know of) who will be able to do everything your dealer can do.

hi, contacted sharky who was very helpful indeed, shame hes in birmingham or id be all sorted, apparently it looks like my ecu has dropped the code somehow and will need reprogramming, so essextech has been recommended seeing as im in essex, i await his speedy reply